June 29th, 2011

Princess Seams with interlining. Help!

So as I mentioned in the last post, it's been a while since I've done a princess seamed bodice. Thus, I need some advice - this is going to be a very fitted bodice, so I want to interline it, as well as put boning on the seam lines. I usually interline things with cotton canvas, but I also usually don't do things from the 20th c. Would they have used interfacing if they needed to interline?

Also, if I go with the canvas, I'm nervous about what will happen to the princess seams over the bust. Will there be too much bulk on those seam lines with the interlining? The top fabric is a drapy crepe, and will probably show every bump. Something else I thought about doing is using the cotton canvas just as the lining, which I did on the Doublet Bodice. But again, that didn't have princess seams.

The other way I figure it might work is if I use fusible interfacing attached to a standard cotton lining, but fuse it on the back and back side pieces, and only the waist portions of the front and front side.

Please tell me what to do!

Oh, and I've decided to do an invisible zipper up the back, so hopefully I'll be able to get it in without too much difficulty.